Hiking Fushimi Inari Taisha in 2024

The official map of Fushimi Inari Taisha.

For the past eight years, I’ve been struggling to walk and rehabilitate my foot and ankle after an injury in 2017. I recently finished physical therapy (for the third time) and finally got a clean bill of health to go on some much-needed adventures! Although, I was told that my legs had to be treated like Bambi legs.

I’m always a little wobbly!

It’s like my legs don’t know how to run, walk, or climb stairs anymore. But that didn’t stop me from hiking up Fushimi Inari Taisha, a sacred shrine and mountain (Inari Yama) in Kyoto, Japan.

You might not recognize the name, but you've definitely seen pictures of Fushimi Inari’s iconic torii gates. It's the famous 'shrine of 1,000 torii' in Kyoto, a place of vibrant vermillion paths and deep spiritual history.

Knowing it would be packed with visitors, I set out early to make the most of the climb. I’d been preparing to climb Fushimi Inari for about three to four months by simulating the grade inclines using a treadmill at the YMCA.

I studied Google Maps to assess the various inclines and declines so I could practice specific sections of the hike. When I got there, that training was invaluable. Although, I didn't realize the inclines weren't sloped—they were stairs, my mortal enemies of the past now eight years. Needless to say, when I saw them, I was feeling a little dismayed, but I stayed positive on my hike and kept reminding myself that I’d prepared for this. I knew how steep it would be. I knew to take breaks every 20 minutes to rest my legs. I knew that I could make it, even with the stairs.

Even though I still needed my walking aid (a cane) from time to time in my daily life, I did the entire hike without assistance by taking strategic breaks and knowing my pace.

Preparation was truly everything.

The climb itself was surreal. What’s neat about being under all the vermillion torii is that the world starts to become vermillion too. It’s so calming. I was especially happy to see some shrine cats along the way! They darted up and down the paths, watched from the woods, and hid behind torii, keeping their distance from travelers. Every now and then, I found food along the path that had been left for them.

A few pictures from my climb up Fushimi Inari Taisha.

The inari shrines along the way were breathtaking. If you aren't familiar with inari, they're fox deities who bring prosperity and good harvest. They are often depicted in statue form at shrines in pairs or families. One fox carries a sickle in its mouth, representing harvest, while the other carries grain, symbolizing prosperity. You can even buy little scarves for them to wear—I didn’t know that!

Even though I left thousands of yen praying at the hundreds of shrines at Fushimi Inari, I definitely have to bring more cash next time. I prayed at so many shrines along the way, asking for the blessing of the inari to keep me safe and to help me cultivate prosperity.

The overlook at Fushimi Inari Taisha. That’s Kyoto!

I reached the overlook around 9:30 a.m. and rested for about 30 minutes, taking in the sweeping view of Kyoto. While there, I met some very sweet girls from India who were just as excited as I was to be there. People who love hiking mountains are always so kind and, the higher up you get, the more of them there are.

The path looped shortly after the overlook, and as the trail steepened and the torii became more spaced out, the crowds thinned. Honestly, I was grateful for that. Without a lot of tourists pushing and shoving for photos for their IG, it became easier to enjoy the nature and sanctity of the mountain and shrines. I pressed on, visiting every shrine along the way. I was honored to meet some shrine caretakers who were so kind and welcoming. I lit candles, left prayers, and even drank warm corn porridge from a vending machine (yes, there are vending machines there!) halfway up the mountain while chatting with one of them.

A portion of the grade 11 incline, looking down. The steepest part of the climb.

Reaching the summit was an emotional moment. I prayed at the highest shrine, taking my time to reflect.

The way down was its own adventure, winding through a bamboo grove and past a few homes. I passed several travelers along the way and nearly slid off the side of the mountain at one point—but my Hoka Speedgoats saved me! That got a good laugh from some Japanese hikers heading up!

The steep, slightly slippery “stairs” down the back of Inari Yama.

On my way down the back of the mountain, not far from the summit, I met a group of girls from California. They were looking exhausted when I passed them, and they asked how much farther they had to go. I offered them encouragement, and when I saw them again later, one of them called me her "angel." They described me as "sunshine" and said that I radiate positivity. As someone whose family always told her she was "negative" and "miserable" and would never have friends as a result, this meant the world to me. I remember crying later because I was so touched that they saw me for me. I'm so grateful to have met them, and their words and smiles still make me feel warm every day. I’m glad they were able to get to the top of the mountain, too!

This hike was more than just a physical challenge for me. It was a spiritual and personal milestone. Now that I’m back in Jacksonville, I picture Fushimi Inari when I need to find peace. I can still picture much of the mountain and all of its adorable inari when I close my eyes. I hope to bring that peace to my art when I illustrate Fushimi Inari. While I don’t know when I’ll be producing that art, it’s important to me that it captures what I felt before I unveil it.

If you’d like see some of the fruits of my trip, you’ll definitely see it come through in my art. I’m being a bit picky about where I share those pieces right now because they’re quite special to me. But, when they do go live, I’ll post them over on my Adventurer’s Guild Patreon first.

Here are a few extra pics that I didn't want to leave out of the post. I hope you like them!